Jarnagin was the "hardcore" souce of the 1980's. And spawned a host of copy-cats who took Jarnagin uniforms and gear and simply had the Indians or Pakistani's clone them with further shortcuts so they could sell it at the same or less price.
With the rise of the Authenticity Movement of the 1990's, and the explosion of both Research and Documentation as a result, and the new sharing medium of the "Internets," new "premium" makers started their cottage-industry small production businesses, striving to be more like the originals in terms of:
1. Period raw materials
2. Period models, patterns, or forms
3. Period methods of assembly, construction, or manufacture.
These being nicknamed the "Gold Standard' for reproductions.
So, what happened in the Hobby was shift from the daze when JUST wearing blanket or skirt weight wool was "authentic," to where say kersey was used, cut to period patterns, and sewn with Period machine or hand stitching where applicable. insterad of say fine wool broadcloth or wool nylon blend used to make trousers that were cut and assembled like actual Period trousers ratheer than takng a modern pair of blue jeans, removing the rear pockets, belt loops, and replacing the ziepr with buttons and calling them CW trousers. Or just making up stuff that could be made of wool broadcloth or blends tha tkinda sorta, from 50 yards away looked like CW stuff.
I am not saying that is bad, just that there are hobbies under the Umbrealla where that is fine and good- mostly on the History-Light side of the scale, versus where teh closer one gets to CW actual stuff the more "authentic" it is in a History-Heavy kind of way.
And reenacting has been divided into segments and communities every since. or as they say the "Them versus Us" or the "Us versus Them."
And ya'll already know about our Culture Wars such as the Farbs versus the Authentics, or the Librarians versus the Doers.
My heresies is that folks have different pictures of what see themselves ding and where they see themselves fitting in. As well as wha tlevle of authenticity, or lack of authenticity in terms of faithful to original items in the Period, their Mental Pictures, pards, and events demand or let slide.
There are CW events where the CCS type "$100 head to toe" deal is a great benefit. And others where it is the Kiss of Death. Meaning sme lads have to have a pair of repro trousers that are just like originals in term sof teh Gold Standard.. While other lads needs allow them to wear modern pants with a button fly instead of zipper, and the rear pockets and belt loops just missing.
As a result there are businesses that market and cater to the different segments. It is HARD to IMPOSSILBE to find out, as most all them advertise their wares as "AUTHENTIC" etc., etc., and no one says "Cheap Clones of Jarnagin Made-up Mainstream wares."